Remoulade redux

16 Jan

Two rémoulades, no waiting:


Shrimp Remoulade is in every New Orleanean’s arsenal of favored dishes for relaxed entertaining. This is our most popular dish and most frequently requested recipe. Tip for the home cook: The sauce is definitely best made a day in advance and refrigerated. Then all that’s left to do is toss in the shrimp, plate and serve. It’s a snap to make, yet it’s always impressive.

¾ cup chopped celery

¾ cup chopped scallions (white and green parts)

½ cup chopped curly parsley

1 cup chopped yellow onion

½ cup ketchup

½ cup tomato purée

½ cup Creole mustard or any coarse, grainy brown mustard

2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, or to taste

¼ cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons Spanish hot paprika

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

½ cup salad oil

4 dozen jumbo (15 count) shrimp, peeled, boiled, and chilled

1 small head of iceberg lettuce, washed, dried and cut into thin ribbons

Mince the celery, scallions, parsley and onions in a food processor. Add the ketchup, tomato puree, Creole mustard, horseradish, red wine vinegar, paprika and Worcestershire. Begin processing again and add the oil in a slow drizzle to emulsify. Stop when the dressing is smooth. Chill for 6 to 8 hours or overnight. Correct the seasoning with additional horseradish, if desired, after the ingredients have had the opportunity to marry.

In a large mixing bowl, add the sauce to the shrimp and toss gently to coat. Divide the lettuce among 6 chilled salad plates. Divide the shrimp evenly atop the lettuce and serve.

GALATOIRE’S rémoulade blanc

1 cup mayonnaise

2 tbsp. Creole mustard

2 tbsp. dry white wine

12t tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 tbsp. grated horseradish

2 tsp. minced parsley, plus more

14 tsp. cayenne

14 tsp. freshly ground white pepper

4 scallions, minced

Kosher salt, to taste

2 lb. medium cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails removed, chilled

12 head iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced

Stir mayonnaise, mustard, wine, juice, horseradish, parsley, cayenne, pepper, scallions, and salt in a bowl; stir in shrimp. Divide lettuce between plates; top with shrimp and garnish with parsley.


12 cup mayonnaise

2 tbsp. high quality olive oil

2 tsp. white wine vinegar

1 tsp. Creole or Dijon mustard

1 tsp. small capers, rinsed, drained, and finely chopped

12 tsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

12 tsp. kosher salt

18 tsp. freshly ground white pepper

3 green onions, finely chopped

1 lb. jumbo lump crab meat

12 large leaves butter lettuce

4 slices tomato, halved

Whisk together mayonnaise, oil, vinegar, mustard, capers, parsley, salt, pepper, and scallions; add crabmeat and fold gently to combine. Place 3 leaves lettuce each on 4 salad plates. Divide crab mixture evenly among plates and garnish with two half slices tomato.


2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar
1 ½ cups vegetable oil
2 tablespoons dill pickle relish
2 tablespoons petite nonpareil capers, drained
Salt and white pepper

In a medium size-mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks, Dijon, lemon juice and vinegar until they are incorporated. Slowly pour the vegetable oil into the mix in a thin steady stream while continuously whisking until a mayonnaise is created. If the mayonnaise gets too thick before all of the oil has been incorporated whisk a tablespoon of room temperature water into the mix and then resume with the oil. Fold in the dill relish and capers. Add salt and white pepper to taste. Chill until needed.


California Sundial chicken salad

11 Jan

From Fetzer & Food Magazine by California chef John Ash.


1 cup Chardonnay

1 cup apple cider or juice

1 da4 cup minced orange zest

1 da4 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons minced green onions

11 da2 teaspoons lemon juice

11 da2 teaspoons sesame or olive oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon Mendocino herb blend (recipe follows)

salt and crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

6 boneless chicken breasts

1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water

250 g/8 ounces mixed salad greens

Combine all marinade ingredients. Pour half of marinade over chicken breasts, cover and refrigerate four hours.

Place remaining marinade in small saucepan, add cornstarch mixture and stir over moderate heat until mixture thickens slightly, about 3 minutes; cool.

To serve, arrange greens on plate. Remove chicken from marinade and pat dry. Grill or saute chicken until just done. Slice chicken thinly on the bias and arrange on top of greens. Drizzle reduced sauce over and serve immediately. Serves six.

Mendocino herb blend

Can be pre-mixed in larger quantities.

2 tbsp crushed rosemary

2 tbsp chopped basil

1 tablespoon sage

1 tablespoon summer savory

1/2 tablespoon lavender flowers, if you can find them

1/2 tablespoon crushed fennel seed

Combine all ingredients. Keep covered for future use on grilled chicken, steamed vegetables, soups or other dishes.

Calgary Herald
Wed Jul 22 1992 

Year of the Dog: 2018

9 Jan

Chinese New Year starts Feb. 16.

We are a wee bit obsessed with longevity noodles, five-spice soy chicken, and shrimp with melon.




Silver Palate Chili

13 Nov


Yields 35-40

1 3/4 pound coarse chopped onions
1/2 cup best quality olive oil
2 pounds sweet Italian sausage meat, 8 pounds ground beef (chuck)
1 1/2 tablespoons ground black pepper
4-6 ounce cans tomato paste
3 tablespoons minced garlic
6 ounces ground cumin
4 ounces chili powder
1/2 cup prepared Silver Palate Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons of salt
4 tablespoons dry basil
4 tablespoons dry oregano
6 pounds drained weight Italian plum tomatoes
1/2 cup burgundy wine
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
1/4 cup chopped Italian Parsley
3-16 ounce cans dark red kidney beans (drained),
4 5.6 ounces pitted black olives

In a large deep pot wilt onions in olive oil. Add sausage meat and begin to brown. Add chopped ground beef and brown everything well. When meat is sufficiently brown skim off excess fat. Add black pepper, tomato paste, garlic, cumin, chili powder, Silver Palate Dijon Mustard, salt, basil, oregano, and stir well. Add the drained plum tomatoes, bourgundy, lemon juice, dill, parsley, and kidney beans. Stir gently and simmer for about 15 minutes more. Before serving stir in pitted black olives. Keep nice and hot. Optional garnish – Sour cream, onions, red peppers and/or cheese.

Cooking in the movies

13 Nov

four seasons

We are on a weird nostalgic 1970s/80s California cooking and gourmet revolution kick. There’s a scene in Alan Alda’s The Four Seasons movie (1981) where the husbands in a group of married friends are cooking Chinese food for their wives at a cabin. They make a big show out of having packed proper woks, obsessively sourcing Asian eggplants and fresh ginger root. Rice noodle sticks explode into a cloud and the men are nearly smoked out of the kitchen trying to get the oil to a proper cooking temperature:

“The oil’s not hot enough. You cannot cook Chinese food properly unless the oil is 480 degrees. It’s a scientific fact.”

“Who said that, Einstein?”

“Newton. Isaac Newton, inventor of mu shu pork.”

The scene takes up only a few minutes of the movie but it has stuck with us all these years. Thanks daytime television. The group’s excitement and pleasure over their exotic creation of Chinese chicken salad, rice and eggplant makes us appreciate the exploding gourmet food trends and cooking craze of the 1970s and 80s. It makes us imagine the treasures to be found at Williams and Sonoma, New York’s Silver Palate, Berekely’s Chez Panisse, in the pages of Gourmet magazine, but especially inside Barbara Tropp’s China Moon Cafe:


The shrimp and the marinade:

1 tablespoon egg white
2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine or quality dry Sherry
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 pound medium (25 to 30) shrimp, shelled and deveined

The sauce:
1 1/2 cups unsalted chicken stock
1/8 cup Chinese rice wine or quality dry Sherry
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon Chinese chili sauce (Koon Yick Wah Kee brand recommended)
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon cold water

The noodles:
1/3 pound Chinese egg noodles (or any thin, fresh pasta)
1 1/2 tablespoons chili oil
The minced zest from half a lemon

The vegetables:
3 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 small yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rings
1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips
1 cup 1/4-inch-thick slices fennel bulb
4 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
4 teaspoons minced garlic
2 slim scallions, the green and the white part cut in very thin rounds
1/2 teaspoon dried hot pepper flakes
The julienned zest from half a lemon
2 teaspoons thinly sliced rings of hot fresh chili pepper, such as Fresno or Serrano (optional)
2 cups 1/2-inch-thick strips of Napa cabbage

The garnish: Fennel sprigs 2 scallions, the green and the white part cut in very thin rounds.

1. Mix together the ingredients for the marinade in a medium-sized bowl until thoroughly combined. Add the shrimp, toss so they are coated with the marinade, cover and refrigerate for 8 to 36 hours.

2. Whisk together all of the sauce ingredients, except the cornstarch and water, in a large bowl and reserve. Whisk together the cornstarch and water in a small bowl and reserve.

3. Bring four cups of water to a boil in a medium-sized saucepan over high heat, then remove from the heat and add the shrimp. Leave them in the hot water just until they turn pink, about 20 seconds. Drain and reserve.

4. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the noodles and stir to separate, then cook until al dente. Drain, run under cold water to cool them and drain well. Toss in a large bowl with the chili oil and the minced lemon zest. Reserve.

5. Heat one tablespoon of the peanut oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat until nearly smoking. Stir-fry the onions just until they turn golden at the edges, about one-and-a-half minutes. Add the bell peppers and stir-fry until they become slightly limp, about two-and-a-half minutes. Add the fennel and stir until it begins to turn limp but is still crisp, about three-and-a-half minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a plate and return the skillet to the heat.

6. Add the additional oil to the skillet and, when the oil is nearly smoking, add the ginger, garlic, scallions and hot chili-pepper flakes and lower the heat to medium so they foam without browning. Cook just until they release their fragrance, about 30 seconds. Add the lemon zest and the hot pepper slices, stir, then add the Napa cabbage and stir-fry until it becomes glossy and is slightly cooked, about 30 seconds. Add the cooked noodles and stir-fry just until they are hot, about two minutes, then add the cooked vegetables and toss until all of the ingredients are mixed. Increase the heat to high and add the sauce mixture. Cover and bring to a boil, then add the shrimp and toss until they are incorporated into the mixture. When the mixture returns to a simmer, add the cornstarch mixture and stir, then cook just until the sauce becomes glossy and slightly thickened, about one minute. Transfer to a serving platter or bowl, garnish with the fennel sprigs and scallion rings and serve immediately.

Yield: Four servings as a main course.

Parsing Parsley Salad

13 Nov

Outtake: American writer Joan Didion prepares a meal in her Malibu kitchen

Joan Didion was definitely ahead of the kale curve with her parsley salad.

Eight bunches of flat leaf parsley to feed 35-40 people. Not knowing what vintage her recipe is from and how big the bunches were compared to today, we suspect this bold-bite salad was served as a garnish or small scoop as part of a larger buffet.

In a word, it’s fantastic. A great change from the typical tart lemon and onion tabbouleh/tabouli you associate with Mediterranean parsley salad. This is richer and more sophisticated. Even still, we couldn’t help meddling with the recipe to add small bits of kale, chopped seeded tomato and toasted breadcrumbs.

To halve the recipe, just use 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 Tbsp balsamic, and 2/3 cup parmesan. Eyeball the parsley needed for the dressing and the kale/parsley combo.


(serves 35–40)

8 bunches Italian parsley
Blend 16 T olive oil with one head parsley until smooth
Blend in 4 T balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper
When ready to serve place parsley in 1 1/3 C grated parmesan in bowl, toss with dressing


Our inspiration for tweaking Joan Didion’s parsley salad. This kale concoction started as a garnish at Una. It’s been the No. 1 seller at Una ever since.

Caesar dressing

  • 1 clove garlic
  • 4 anchovy fillets
  • 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • ½ cup olive oil

Kale salad

  • 2 Tbsp olive oil, plus more, if needed
  • 4 thin slices prosciutto, julienned
  • ½ cup panko crumbs
  • Maldon salt and black pepper
  • 2 bunches kale, leaves only, julienned
  • 1 cup grated Pecorino Romano
  • 2 soft-boiled eggs, peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar dressing

Using a fork, crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl. Add mustard, lemon juice and zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified. Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside.

Kale salad

Line a plate with paper towels. Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high. Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the paper towel — lined plate and set aside. Reduce the heat to low.

Add panko crumbs to the pan, adding a little oil if required, and toast until golden, about 2 minutes. Scrape the panko into a small bowl, season to taste with salt and set aside.

Place kale in a large bowl, pour in the dressing and toss well. Season with salt and black pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with Pecorino Romano, toasted panko and crispy prosciutto. Serve with the boiled eggs, if desired.

Serves 4.

Cooking with Joan Didion

13 Nov

Outtake: American writer Joan Didion prepares a meal in her Malibu kitchen


Didion says this serves serves 35-40. I’m tempted to try it with kale and top it with toasted breadcrumbs like Una’s.
8 bunches Italian parsley
Blend 16 T olive oil with one head parsley until smooth
Blend in 4 T balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper
When ready to serve place parsley in 1 1/3 C grated parmesan in bowl, toss with dressing.

On March 27 2005 at 1:30 PM J & J have become just J. Joan had Q and Jerry and twenty seven others for Baked Ham, Alice Water’s coleslaw, and deviled eggs.

1 medium cabbage (about 3 pounds), outer leaves removed
1 large jalapeno pepper
1/2 small red onion, cut in half through the stem, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3 to 4 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1/4 to 1/3 cup olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons Maldon or other sea salt or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper or more to taste
Large pinch of sugar or more to taste.

Quarter the cabbage through the core; cut out the core. Cut the quarters crosswise in half; finely shred, using a sharp knife. Place shredded cabbage in a very large bowl or pot (you will have about 5 1/2 quarts). Cut open the jalapeno, discard the seeds and dice it fine. Add diced jalapeno, onion and cilantro to the cabbage and toss to mix. Sprinkle with the lime juice, vinegar, oil, salt, pepper and sugar, and toss to coat.

Let slaw sit for 1 hour, tossing occasionally. Drain; taste and adjust seasonings. Wait another hour. Serve at room temperature.

Sunday Lunch April 8 2007. Joan and no J and no Q had twenty-two for chicken hash, yellow pepper, crab and mustard sauce, chocolates, brie.

For 1 pound of crabmeat:

Melt 4 T butter, sauté 1/4 tp 1/2 cup chopped celery and 3 chopped scallions. Stir in 1/2 t dry mustard, 1 T flour, cayenne and salt. Add 1 container heavy cream, thicken a bit, stir in crabmeat.

Pour into baking dish, finish with dried bread crumbs, Parmesan, and paprika. In oven 15 minutes, finish under broiler until brown.




(for pound of pasta)

1 stick butter, 1 t red pepper flakes, 1 c vodka, 1 8-oz can tomato sauce, 1 tomato, 1 c heavy cream


(for pound of pasta)
a cup and a half (about one ounce) of basil leaves, loosely packed
a handful of parsley leaves
1/8 ¼ cup pine nuts
several garlic cloves
a teaspoon of red pepper flakes
a quarter ½ cup olive oil

Blend together, gradually adding oil and then mixing in pepper flakes.