More on our East Meets West series for Chinese New Year.
Our favourite Chinese chicken wings are dry, garlicky and salty. Paired this week with a favourite movie or two (Farewell My Concubine, Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, Raise the Red Lantern), these aromatic wings sound like a perfect treat.
SPICY CHINESE FIVE-SPICE RUBBED CHICKEN WINGS WITH CREAMY CILANTRO DIPPING SAUCE Dave Lieberman
40 chicken wing pieces or 20 whole chicken wings
2 tbsp. Chinese five-spice powder (available at grocery or Asian specialty food stores)
3 tsp. cayenne pepper
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Creamy Cilantro Dipping Sauce
What you’ll need for Creamy Cilantro Dipping Sauce:
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1/4 cup light sour cream
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup yogurt
1/2 lemon, juiced
Kosher or regular salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions for Creamy Cilantro Dipping Sauce:
1. Combine ingredients in mixing bowl, and whisk.
2. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
Directions for Wings:
1. Preheat your oven to 500°.
2. If you have whole chicken wings, cut off wingtips and cut the wings in half at the joint. Discard wingtips or freeze to make stock at a later time.
3. Place the wings in a large bowl. Sprinkle five-spice powder and cayenne on the wings, add a few pinches of salt and about 15 grinds of black pepper.
4. Rub the mixture into all the wings until no extra loose rub remains. Wash your hands.
5. Line the wing pieces up on a baking sheet so the side of the wing that has the most skin is facing up. Roast until cooked through, browned and crispy, about 25 minutes. Serve hot with Creamy Cilantro Dipping Sauce.
“Burgers made from leftover spicy pork wonton filling is a favorite staff lunch at China Moon Cafe in San Francisco. The meat mixture is moist and zestily seasoned, so a mild Dijon mustard is a terrific accompaniment…. Wonton, by the way, translates as “cosmic chaos”. The word dates back to Chinese antiquity when the universe was described as a jumble of light and dark enclosed in a thin shell, hence the edible invention of the wonton.”
2 French baguettes — each cut crosswise — into 4 equal — portions
peanut oil
Dijon mustard
In a large bowl, combine the green onion, cilantro, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, rice wine or sherry, salt, pepper, chile oil, and stock and mix well. Add the pork and stir in one direction with your hands or a large spoon just until the mixture can be thoroughly blended. Do not overcook the meat. (At this point the mixture can be sealed airtight and refrigerated overnight. The flavors will actually enlarge. Bring to room temperature before cooking.)
Handling the meat mixture as little as possible to avoid compacting it, divide it into 8 equal portions nd form the portions into rectangles to fir the bread. Brush a heavy skillet with a film of oil. Remember that the pork will render some of its own fat, so you’ll need only minimal oil for cooking. Place the pan over high heat and heat it as hot as possible. Add the patties and sear, turning once, until well browned on both sides. Reduce the heat and cook until done to your preference.
Cut the French bread lengthwise and spread the cut surfaces of the baguette portions with mustard and enclose the patties inside.
We can’t help but think our new shiny vessel would be perfect for this recipe.
This salmon rillette is a signature dish from Le Bernardin, served to all guests at the beginning of lunch.
We are keen to lighten the mayo with some yogurt or sour cream so it doesn’t taste like a cafeteria sandwich. Also, vermouth may be a good change for the poaching liquid sometime. See smaller portion at bottom.
SALMON RILLETTE Le BernadinServes 8
1 bottle dry white wine
2 Tbsp. (25 mL) chopped shallots
1 tsp. (5 mL) fine sea salt, plus more to taste
2 lbs. (1 kg) fresh salmon fillet, fat trimmed, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
6 oz. (170 g) smoked salmon (in 1 piece), fat trimmed, cut into small dice
2 tbsp. (25 mL) thinly sliced fresh chives
1/4 cup (50 mL) fresh lemon juice
1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise
1/4 tsp. (1 mL) freshly ground white pepper
hot sauce
toasted baguette slices, for serving
Place the wine, shallots and 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of salt in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the fresh salmon. Poach for 40 seconds. Drain in a sieve and run cold water over just to stop the cooking. Drain well and refrigerate until cold. Discard the poaching liquid.
Place the smoked salmon in a large bowl and stir in the chives. Add the poached salmon and use the side of a wooden spoon to shred the salmon as you mix. Stir in the lemon juice, mayonnaise and pepper. Add salt to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve. (The recipe can be made up to 6 hours ahead). Serve with toasted baguette.
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2 cups white wine
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1 pound fresh salmon fillet, cut
into 1-inch pieces
3 ounces smoked salmon, diced
2 tablespoons thinly sliced
chive
½ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
– fine sea salt and freshly
ground white pepper
“Shanghai Garden. May I help you?”
“I’d like to order some take-out.”
“Address, please.”
“331 West 78th Street. Apartment 4F. I’d like to order some chicken with broccoli in a brown…”
“Brown sauce with brown rice. Cold noodles. I know. Every night the same!”
Miranda Hobbes’s yen for brown sauce may elude us, but we are down with the cold noodles.
With Chinese New Year looming Feb. 3, we’re embarking on a countdown.
First, a NYT version and then, David Lebovitz. How can you go wrong?
TAKEOUT-STYLE SESAME NOODLES Recipe from Sam Sifton, New York Times, adapted from Martin Yan, Marian Burros, and memory.
1 pound Chinese egg noodles (1/8,-inch-thick), frozen or (preferably) fresh, available in Asian markets
2 tablespoons sesame oil, plus a splash
3½ tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons Chinese rice vinegar
2 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste
1 tablespoon smooth peanut butter
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons chili-garlic paste, or to taste
Half a cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/8,-by- 1/8,-by-2-inch sticks
¼ cup chopped roasted peanuts.
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add noodles and cook until barely tender, about 5 minutes; they should retain a hint of chewiness. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again and toss with a splash of sesame oil.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sesame oil, the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame paste, peanut butter, sugar, ginger, garlic and chili-garlic paste.
3. Pour the sauce over the noodles and toss. Transfer to a serving bowl, and garnish with cucumber and peanuts. Serves 4.
Notes
The “Chinese sesame paste,” above, is made of toasted sesame seeds; it is not the same as tahini, the Middle Eastern paste made of plain, untoasted sesame. But you could use tahini in a pinch. You need only add a little toasted sesame oil to compensate for flavor, and perhaps some peanut butter to keep the sauce emulsified.
By all means, add some Sichuan peppercorns if you like: toast a tablespoon’s worth in a dry pan, crush lightly and whisk the resulting mess into your sauce.
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COLD NOODLES WITH PEANUT SAUCE David Lebovitz
Peanut Sauce
Four servings
This recipe makes about 2 cups (500ml) of peanut sauce, which is more than you’ll need for four servings. But it’s pretty great on white rice as an afternoon snack or French fries.
The chicken needs to be hand-shredded since the uneven surface makes it easier for the peanut sauce to adhere to the meat. Toast the peanuts in a 350ºF (180ºC) oven on a baking sheet for about twelve minutes, stirring a few times during baking, until they’re well-toasted.
2 cups (300g) dark roasted unsalted peanuts
1/2 to 3/4 cup (125-180ml) hot black tea
1/2 cup (125ml) oil, preferably peanut (see Notes) or coconut milk
1 tablespoon (10g) peeled and minced fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 small chiles, seeded and finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon light or dark brown sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon ground Szechuan pepper (if available)
1/4 cup (60ml) fresh lime or lemon juice
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 1/2 teaspoons chili paste or chili oil
1/3 cup (15g) packed cilantro sprigs or chives
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 pound (450g) wide Chinese noodles, often called Shanghai noodles (see Notes)
2 chicken breasts, boneless or on the bone
1 large cucumber
sprigs of cilantro
1. Put the peanuts, 1/2 cup (125ml) of hot tea, and the oil or coconut milk in a blender.
2. Turn the machine on and let it run for a few minutes until the peanuts are almost smooth. Then add the remaining ingredients and let the machine run until the sauce is pureed.
3. Check the consistency. If it’s too thick for your liking, add up to another 1/4 cup (55ml) of tea.
4. Cook the noodles in a pot of boiling salted water according to the time on the package. (I usually cook them a little less, since I like them chewy.)
5. Once done, drain and immediately run cold water over the noodles in the colander, turning them with tongs to cool them as rapidly as possible. Toss the noodles in a drizzle of oil and set aside.
6. Put the chicken breasts in a medium saucepan, cover with cold water and add enough salt to estimate the saltiness of sea water. Cover and bring the water to a boil.
7. Once the water comes to a boil, turn off the heat and leave the chicken breasts in the water for twenty minutes, covered. After twenty minutes, remove the chicken breasts from the liquid and let sit until cool enough to handle.
8. Shred the chicken breasts by hand into bite-size strips.
9. Peel the cucumber. Cut it in half lengthwise then remove the seeds with a spoon. Slice the cucumber diagonally.
10. Divide the noodles between the four bowls, top with chicken and cucumbers, then add a few generous, heaping spoonfuls of peanut sauce. Garnish with sprigs of cilantro and encourage guests to mix everything together in their own bowls.
Storage Tips: The peanut sauce can be made up to one week in advance and refrigerated, or frozen for up to two months. The chicken breasts and the noodles can be cooked and refrigerated up to one day ahead.
Cold Sesame Noodles Adapted from Susanna Foo’s Chinese Cuisine (Chapters), this noodle salad is garnished at the last minute with crisp vegetables.
2 tablespoons (25 ml) corn or olive oil
1 pound (500 g) fresh Chinese noodles
Dressing:
2 tablespoons (25 ml) oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup (125 ml) sesame paste or natural peanut butter
1/3 cup (75 ml) soy sauce
1 tablespoon (15 ml) balsamic vinegar
1-2 teaspoons (5-10 ml) Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon (15 ml) sugar
1/3 cup (75 ml) chicken stock
1/4 cup (50 ml) finely chopped unsalted peanuts
Garnish:
1/2 cup (125 ml) julienned Belgian endive or cabbage
1/2 cup (125 ml) peeled, julienned seeded cucumber
1/2 cup (125 ml) julienned red bell pepper
1/2 cup (125 ml) minced fresh cilantro leaves
1/4 cup (50 ml) toasted sesame seeds
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of oil and pasta and cook for 3-5 minutes, until tender but firm. Do not overcook. Drain and toss with remaining oil. Spread on a large baking sheet, cover with plastic and cool. Place in a plastic bag and refrigerate until cold, up to 1 day in advance.
For dressing, heat oil in a skillet and cook garlic until golden. Remove from heat and add sesame paste, soy sauce, vinegar, Tabasco and sugar. Stir to form a thick paste. Bring stock to a boil and slowly add to paste, mixing well. Stir in peanuts.
To assemble, toss the cold noodles with 1/2- 3/4 cup of dressing (the leftover dressing will keep, refrigerated, for a week or can be frozen).
Mound the noodles on individual plates and garnish with endive, cucumber, bell pepper, cilantro and sesame seeds. Serves 4 as a main course.
If you recognize that headline, you’ve seen Despicable Me and hopefully adore the maniacal waxings of a young hoarder in the making.
We felt the same way when we saw the bit of shiny happy above.
So old-fashioned. Our thoughts immediately leapt to chilled seafood dips. Can’t you just see the beads of condensation forming on the little cup? The slices of cucumber fanned just so? While a tangy Bloody Mary/cream cheese-sour cream/vodka/horseradish/lemon dip comes to mind, the stately shimmer also harkens our imagination to an old timey classic — clam dip.
Following are a classic version and a way fancier and satisfying New York Times version with beer-steamed clams, bacon and chipotle.
RETRO CLAM DIP
Makes 1 Cup
1 6 ½ ounce can chopped clams plus juice
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon garlic powder (try 1/2 tbsp fresh garlic)
½ teaspoon onion salt (try Old Bay)
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley
Dash of hot sauce (optional)
green onions
Drain the clams and reserve the liquid.
Place the cream cheese in a bowl, add the clams, the Worcestershire, lemon juice, garlic powder and onion salt. Blend well. Gradually add the clam juice, a tablespoon or so at a time until the dip has a nice consistency. Stir in the parsley.
1 12-ounce bottle light lager beer
18 littleneck clams, scrubbed
4 slices bacon, chopped
3 tablespoons minced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
3 tablespoons Mexican crema or sour cream
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 chipotle pepper in adobo sauce (with clinging sauce), minced
Juice of half a lime
Several dashes habanero hot sauce or Tabasco sauce
½ red bell pepper, finely diced
3 scallions, thinly sliced.
1. Pour beer into a wide saucepan large enough to hold clams in one layer. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Add clams, cover, and cook until clams open, 3 to 5 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer clams to a bowl, discarding any unopened clams. Reserve 2 tablespoons cooking liquid, discard remainder. When clams are cool, remove from shells and mince.
3. In a large skillet over medium heat, fry bacon until crisp; transfer to paper towels to drain. Add onion and garlic to skillet and sauté until garlic is golden and onions are softened, about 1 minute.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the cream cheese and crema or sour cream. Add reserved clam cooking liquid, bacon, onions and garlic, clams, cilantro, chipotle pepper, lime juice and hot sauce. Stir to combine. Garnish with red bell pepper and scallions. If desired, serve with potato or tostada chips, or assorted dipping vegetables like cherry tomatoes, celery and jicama.
Yield: About 2 cups (8 servings).
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Here’s a wildcard: SUMPTUOUS SEAFOOD DIP
Once you taste this rich combination of shrimp and crab, you’ll understand why it’s called sumptuous.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20-25 minutes (if served warm)
Makes: 2 1/2 cups
1 250 gram pkg. firm cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup grated Swiss cheese
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 lb. cooked salad shrimp, patted dry and coarsely chopped
1, 120 g can of crab meat, drained well and patted dry
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp chopped fresh dill
1 garlic clove, crushed
* dashes of Tabasco and Worcestershire
* salt and white pepper to taste
Place the cream cheese in a bowl and beat until lightened. Mix all remaining ingredients. Spoon the dip into a decorative bowl (heatproof, if served hot). This dip can be served cold or hot. Cover and keep refrigerated until ready to serve. To serve hot, cover the dip with foil and heat 20-25 minutes in a 375F oven, or until heated through. Garnish with a few whole shrimp and dill sprigs just before serving, if desired.
Egads, but we’re unstoppable when it comes to amassing more thrift store junk.
Dig that wicked vintage glazed stoneware fondue pot and baby dipping sauce crocks. Like this one!Or this. (We’ve decided we’re going to use it as a Japanese nabe pot from stove top to table. Recipe below.) Giftcraft from Japan, whatever that is. $6.99. True story.
Or, this darling $4 Pyrex aqua-print butterprint/amish/farmer bowl. See how handsome it is next to our coveted 1950s balloon Cinderella chip and dip set (thanks Mom!)
Ah. Spa. Can’t you smell the heady eucalyptus/rosemary/chamomile scent?
As deepest darkest winter hits, we are in need for some serious TLC.
Deep hair conditioning, exfoliating, detoxing.
We’ll start with our favourite spa water, followed by some other outstanding sippers.
SPA WATER
1 orange, sliced
1 lemon, sliced
1 lime, sliced
1/2 grapefruit, pink or white, sliced
1 cup fresh mint leaves
Add all of the ingredients to a clear pitcher and fill with water. drink at room temperature.
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CUCUMBER WATER
handful of mint
8 slices of skinned cucumber
half a lemon sliced in half circles
a bottle of sparking or still water
ice
Muddle or crush the mint in a pitcher, then add the cucumber and lemon. Pour the water into the pitcher and serve in tall glasses filled with ice.
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CANTALOUPE AQUA FRESCA from the Trellis Spa, The Houstonian Hotel, Houston, TX
Cantaloupe and cucumber, peel and slice both.
Layer in pitcher with ice and four cups of water.
In our effort to both eat less and save some dough, here is a salad worthy of note.
SUNNY SMOKEY SALAD
1 cup toasted quinoa cooked in 2 cups of water–toast dry quinoa in a skillet until it starts popping
1 can drained chickpeas
1 cup of vegetables: diced cooked sweet potato, grated zucchini, beet, carrot or whatever you have.
Dressing:
3TBS olive oil
3TBs orange juice
3TBS pomegranate or red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic minced
1/2 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp ground chipotle pepper
1/2 salt
Toss together after cooked quinoa has cooled. Chill and serve.
“Burgers made from leftover spicy pork wonton filling is a favorite staff lunch at China Moon Cafe in San Francisco. The meat mixture is moist and zestily seasoned, so a mild Dijon mustard is a terrific accompaniment…. Wonton, by the way, translates as “cosmic chaos”. The word dates back to Chinese antiquity when the universe was described as a jumble of light and dark enclosed in a thin shell, hence the edible invention of the wonton.”
Saucy Cherie 